C O N T E N T S

 Last Sea Day [Wed May 5th 1999]

Our final full day at sea was a scorcher, with the hot Pacific sunshine drenching the decks with its warmth as we moved south-west from the Tokelaus towards Wallis Island. The educational program filled our day, commencing with Jeff's concluding lecture on Captain Cook's adventures in the South Pacific. We heard about his final journey through the great southern ocean, en route to the north-western coast of North America. Cook had been commissioned by the British Admiralty to search for a north west passage that would provide a link between Europe and the northern Pacific nations. In undertaking such a journey, Cook deepened his mark in history by opening up an essentially undiscovered part of the planet to the civilised world. Jeff discussed the fact that the search proved not only futile in its objective, but ultimately fatal for Cook, concluding in his violent demise on the Hawaiian islands. Through this superb series of lectures however, we gained a wonderful insight into the spirit of adventure that drove this pioneer to explore some of the least charted yet most fascinating waters on the planet.

Later in the morning, Theresa looked at the Black Pearls that have become synonymous with the South Pacific, focusing on the contribution made by many of the small islands we have visited, to this burgeoning industry. We were enlightened as to the whole procedure that pearl farming entails, from the cultivation of the Black Lipped Pearl Oyster to the implant of an irritant into these shells once they have matured, which ultimately forms the basis for pearl itself. Theresa discussed the aquatic conditions required to support this type of farming, giving us a clearer understanding of why these South Pacific lagoons are such an ideal environment for their production. We also had the opportunity for a closer look at Mangaréva with some of Theresa's video footage taken during Shuleykin's recent visit to the island.

Most of us braved the heat outdoors to enjoy another of Austin and Rolf's delicious bar-b-que's on the stern deck at lunchtime, as we sheltered beneath the tarpaulins to escape the biting rays. Despite our more southerly course, the temperatures remain high, but given our vicinity to the equator, this is not really surprising!

The afternoon was capped off with another informative lecture from Paul discussing the tell-tale signs that point to past meteorological catastrophes over the surface of the earth. He outlined a course of geological investigation undertaken by a group of geologists, himself included, spawned from the discovery of a number of factors. These included the consistent appearance of chevron shaped ridges scarring the landscape across the Bahamas; marine deposits throughout the Bahamas, Bermuda and Hawaii, that are created only beneath sea level but which have appeared at altitudes much higher than our present sea level; the presence of massive ancient boulders resting precariously upon rock bases much younger than the boulders themselves. Through a careful analysis he explained that this evidence suggested a ferocious change in weather, bringing to an end a particularly warm inter-glacial period at a speed that was unusually rapid in the cyclic swing between glacial and inter-glacial phases.
 

Wallis and Futuna is one of the few countries where pigs outnumber people. The 25,000 swine have free run of the land; they're often seen foraging for shellfish on the beaches. In the early evening they are called back for feeding and penning: one can hear bells ringing, people shouting, the beating of drums, gongs, etc, as the owners utilise different methods of calling the "cochons".

“If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in the water... its substance reaches everywhere, it touches the past and prepares the future.”

Loren Eiseley

 Day lost crossing International Date Line

 Wallis [Fri May 7th 1999]

Another day, another remote tropical island paradise and today's visit to Wallis was no exception. The venture began early with the Shuleykin making a steady passage through the reef at Passe Honikulu whilst a number of passengers filled the top deck to witness the tricky navigation. Having squeezed through the pass and sailed by the southern island of Nukuhaeta we continued another eight miles until dropping anchor just off the wharf at Mata Utu where we made our Zodiac landing in near glassy waters.

Continuing in our habit of commandeering local school buses, we began our tour of the island passing many churches and cathedrals as we went. Be it the massive stone hulk of Mata Uta Cathedral or the "Wedding Cake" style construction we passed near the school there were many visible signs of Catholicism having made its mark on this little known corner of Polynesia.

Our first stop was Lake Lanutavake, which was a precept for the more impressive Lake Lalolalo with its spectacular circular vertical walls measuring some 30 metres high. These crater lakes were surrounded by thick vegetation and made an ideal habitat for the many white-tailed tropicbirds we witnessed swooping between the lofty cliffs. A few of us tasted some fresh oranges, picked straight from trees by the lake, which no doubt helped quench the thirst on another swelteringly hot day.

Before the bus was back on duty picking up school children, we made another stop at the site of an ancient fortress that was once inhabited by native Polynesians and their rulers. Once again, we were witness to sights that very few people will have the privilege to see. It was real treat to survey this volcanic-rock stronghold, as it has only become accessible and carefully restored within the last five years thereby giving us a snapshot view of ancient Polynesian life.

Having worked up an appetite, our stomachs began to get the 'growlies' so we made our way to Motu Nukuhifala for a picnic lunch followed by some snorkelling. A short distance from the shore we found some of the best preserved and interesting looking coral we have seen so far. Of course we mustn't forget the many bird sightings including a Purple Swamphen and "Bird of the Day" spotted by Steve; a Pacific Pigeon.
 

The Kingdom of Tonga is the oldest and last remaining Polynesian monarchy and is the only Pacific nation never to be brought under foreign rule. It spreads over 700,000 square km of ocean from Niuafo'ou to the Minerva Reef 290 km south-west of Ata but the total land area is only 691 square km.

“...I must go down to seas again to the lonely seas and the sky, And all I ask is a square - rigged ship and a star to steer her by, And the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sail's shaking, And the gray mist on the sea's face, and a gray dawn breaking.”

John Masefield (from Sea Fever)

 Niuafo'ou, Tonga [Sat May 8th 1999]

Our day on Nuiafo'ou was another wonderful experience in the collection of South Pacific islands that we have encountered during this journey. We awoke to the sight of the dark volcanic shoreline just off the deck, hung with a backdrop of lush green vegetation covering the sides of the volcanic crater that forms the natural feature of this island.

After an early breakfast, the Zodiacs were quickly in the water and we were loaded in small groups for our journey to shore. The tiny harbour offered something of a challenge as a landing site. The bow of the Zodiac was pushed against the rocky pier and we climbed ashore with the stern rising and falling in our wake as the islanders took our hands to welcome us to Nuiafo'ou. We were quickly escorted to the waiting vehicles and were whisked away on an island tour, making our way through the numerous small villages full of smiling, waving Tongans, en route to the crater lake Vai Lahi.

Upon closer inspection, the surrounding landscape offered a stunning contrast, with harsh, jagged lava flows interspersed amongst the heavy jungle vegetation. Our guides told us of the devastation that the island had suffered, not only at the hands of the volcano but also from seasonal hurricanes. We also heard the story explaining how Niuafo'ou earned the nickname of Tin Can Island, with their rather unusual method for collecting and delivering mail to passing ships.

Having travelled along some remarkably bumpy roads, we finally made it to the shores of Vai Si'i, a smaller lake adjacent to Vai Lahi. Some of us climbed aboard the small motor boats that were headed for our lunch spot between the two lakes, while others chose to walk around the shore. After the islanders deftly manoeuvred the boats across the small stretch of land from one lake to the other, most of us again took our places aboard for our journey to Motu Molemole in search of the Megapode. Having been threatened by grey skies all morning, we finally fell victim to the weather as a torrential tropical downpour passed across the lake, but the intrepid adventurers continued, earning a swim in the warm waters of the crater as our reward. Our search for the Megapode proved fruitless, but we were fortunate to see some of the burrows where these cleverly adapted birds leave their eggs to incubate in the warm volcanic earth. We also had the opportunity to visit the lake on the island, in the lake on the island as an added bonus.

While all this was going on a delicious lunch was being prepared by the islanders and we returned to a wonderful feast of Tongan fare to tempt our taste buds. Sadly the cultural performance we have seen on other islands was missing due to the recent death of the King's brother and the national mourning that is observed in the wake of such occasions. We were however treated to a display of the traditional dress of these islands as well as the beautiful voices of our new found friends wishing us a farewell in melodious song.

Finally we all made our way back to the vehicles and headed back to the pier. Our return journey took us through some even more heavily wooded jungle, but we were given a closer look at the massive lava field which covers nearly half of the island, setting a spectacular moonscape in our view. We finally said our farewells, and returned to the Shuleykin, but not before we had all been touched by the friendship and hospitality of the Tongan people, which made for another wonderful day in paradise.
 

Fiji is an independent island nation in the southern Pacific Ocean located approximately 3100 km northeast of Sydney, Australia and approximately 5000 km southeast of Hawaii. Fiji was a British colony from 1874 to 1970 when it achieved independence. Suva is the country's capital, largest city and commercial centre.

“In the Middle Ages people were tourists because of their religion, whereas now they are tourists because tourism is their religion.”

Robert Runcie

 Taveuni, Fiji [Sun May 9th 1999]

After a rocky night at sea, many of us awoke this morning to find the contents of our cabins spread all over the floor. Having replaced the items, we staggered to the dining room for breakfast then spent the majority of the day making a swaying passage to Taveuni, known as the Garden Island of Fiji. Grey skies interspersed with the occasional shard of sunlight made a welcoming change especially when contrasted to the scorching hot weather we have experienced for most of this expedition.

Our day was mostly consumed with our educational program, which started with a frightener from Paul about the devastating effect that man is having upon the planet. He discussed the cause and effect of global warming, the dissolution of the polar ice and the effect that such weather changes would have upon the environmental operation of the planet. We all came away feeling a little more responsibility for our actions, understanding how our behaviour can impact upon this cycle of change.

Later in the morning, Jeff revisited Tahiti with his lecture on the downfall of William Bligh at the hands of the Bounty Mutineers. He traced the course of events that led to the insurrection aboard this now famous ship, as well as the divergent paths taken by the protagonists. We heard about Bligh in his open long boat, travelling through to Timor in the wake of native hostilities on other islands, as well as Fletcher Christian's search for Pitcairn Island as an isolated habitat to support the fugitive mutineers. A fascinating look at one of the more colourful aspects of South Pacific history.

Our afternoon was relatively quiet, as the seas calmed somewhat and the sight of the Fijian islands began to loom across our horizon. Having dropped anchor off the north coast of Taveuni as the rains continued to fall, the intrepid amongst our ranks braved the watery weather to make an early venture to shore. Our customs clearance was slow in the offing, but once this was finalised we made our way ashore to a small village that literally seemed to be built around the sport of Rugby. The central feature of the village was the rugby pitch around which the majority of buildings were constructed, indicating the passion with which this sport is played. The town was filled with residents in their Sunday finery as the island celebrated the feast of Mother's Day and despite the rain, everyone was in high spirits, welcoming us to their small community.

Once everyone had returned to the ship, we were treated to a performance in our bar that came as a surprise to many. We were joined by a local group of Fijian musicians who came aboard to perform for us and also offer a small insight into their culture with a Kava bowl being filled in the bar. As we were entertained by the beautiful voices of our visitors, many of us joined in the Kava drinking that went on, experiencing the tingling sensation this herbal brew gives to the tongue and lips, as well as the gentle sedative effect that the drink provides. After dinner, we were fortunate to enjoy more of this wonderful Fijian culture, until the evening ended in song. We said our farewells and the talented entertainers were transported to their homes under cover of the night in our trusty Zodiacs.
 

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Fiji

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Pottery pieces found in Fiji suggest the islands were settled in the west from Melanesia at least 3500 years ago. These settlers farmed and fished and brought pigs and poultry to the islands. There was extensive contact with Polynesia, particularly Tonga, and culturally, Fijians became more Polynesian than Melanesian. Fijian society was highly stratified. Allegiances to clans and chiefs were complicated, and warfare, including cannibalism, was common as leaders competed for control of the islands.

“Work to live, live to travel, travel to broaden the mind, broaden the mind and incapacitate it with tolerance.”

Matthew Mumford

 Taveuni Revisited [Mon May 10th 1999]

Since we all slept soundly from the anaesthetising effects of Kava we were ready for our early morning departure. 07:30 found us in the zodiacs heading to Taveuni, the Garden Isle of Fiji. We landed at the village of Nggeleni, on the northeast coast, where we jumped into trucks and headed south to one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Fiji, Mbouma Falls.

A grassy path along a river led us through some of the most lush vegetation we have seen yet on our voyage. Fern trees, vines, ginger plants, and plumeria filled our senses. Mbouma waterfall, 80 feet high, splashes down into a gorgeous natural swimming pool. As we jumped in, the cool temperature was startling after becoming used to the bathwater temperatures of the shallow lagoons. Our entertainment in the pool was watching Geoff try to swim up to the falls only to be held back by the powerful current and wind. Paul spotted a Red Shining parrot, but when we joined him up the trail the parrot remained elusive. We did, however spot the cane toad, introduced from Hawaii in 1936 to control insects in the sugar cane plantations and has now become a pest itself competing with the native ground frog.

As we continued our tour of Taveuni we saw the locals going to vote. This week national elections were taking place and we learned from our guides that voting is mandatory with a 50 tala (Fijian money) fine for non-compliance. One of the issues being voted on is if Fiji should rejoin the Commonwealth. An interesting twist since most of the islands in the South Pacific are now moving toward independence.

At the end of our tour we visited the monument located on the 180 degree meridian, where we could stand with one foot in the western hemisphere and one in the eastern. This line of meridian is not consistent however with the international dateline, which meanders according to political boundaries. At the village of Somosomo we took our last zodiac ride back to the ship and set sail for Lautoka on the island of Viti Levu. For lunch back on board Austin and Rolf outdid themselves with a delicious oriental buffet which we ate whilst sailing through choppy waters towards our final destination, Lautoka.
 

In 1643 Dutch explorer Abel Tasman was the first European to sight the islands of Fiji. Regular European contact did not begin until the early 19th century, however. Groves of the valuable sandalwood tree were found by a shipwrecked American on Vanua Levu. His finding led to a vigorous trade that nearly stripped the island of its sandalwood trees. A European settlement developed at Levuka on the island of Ovalau in the 1820s and the London Missionary Society began converting the islanders in the Lau Group to Christianity in the 1830s. In the 1840s the American explorer Charles Wilkes made the first reliable maps of Fiji.

“There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”

Kenneth Grahame

 Lautoka, Fiji [Tue May 11th 1999]